After the exhaustion of touring Delhi the previous day, it was with some difficultly that I forced myself out of bed at 5:10am on April 8th to catch a train to Agra, where I was scheduled for 12 full hours of sightseeing, before catching the train back. It was going to be a LONG day and I must admit to being somewhat apprehensive. Did I have the energy? Would I find the Taj Mahal disappointing after all the hype and expectation? I had hired a private car and guide for the day. Was it going to be worth the vast expense?
In brief, the answers are just about, not at all and possibly not but I'll keep telling myself it was.
Now for the detail, which will be split into a four posts because there's so much to tell and too many photos for just one.
I was met at the train door by the travel agent and soon introduced to my driver for the day and my delightful guide. So far so good on the private travel arrangements, I thought.
First on the agenda was the Taj Mahal. Although there were a lot of people, we got there early enough that it didn't feel crowded, which was a great relief. From the moment we entered the Taj Ganj area, before even seeing the Taj Mahal itself, I was already impressed. The gate house alone would have been worth a visit.
The Taj Mahal is hypnotically beautiful from a distance. After seeing so many pictures, I couldn't quite believe I was face to facade with it. Unfortunately, the weather was rather ominous, with black clouds and peals of thunder threatening the storm that would break a few minutes later. But although I didn't see the building in the light which so famously makes it glimmer, the darkness gave the building a moodiness and intensity that was appealing in a quite different way. I know you all know what it looks like, but here's a picture anyway:
As impressive as the building is from afar, it was the close up detail that really took my breath away. I knew that the Taj was covered in semi-precious stones, but that I'd never seen a picture of. I'd had in my mind something extremely gaudy. I suppose I was expecting something roughly comparable with San Marco's in Venice in that respect. I was wrong. The stones are all inlaid into the white marble in beautiful floral patterns. This is some detail on the outside of the building:
The work inside the mausoleum is even more exquisite, but unfortunately photos of that area are not allowed. And then there's the quantity as well as the quality; absolutely everywhere you look there's something beautiful to behold, be it the inlaid stone work or the filigree and carving in the marble:
The inside of the mausoleum is so incredible that it left me literally speechless. Although magnificent in every way, with the fabulous wealth of Shahjahar (who commissioned it as a testament of his love for his deceased wife) manifestly evident, it didn't strike me as at all pretentious. I could not have been more enthralled. So much for the fear of not meeting expectations. It actually exceeded them.
The Taj Mahal is framed by two red sandstone buildings. One is a mosque, the identical one on the other side purely for symmetry. Anywhere else, these places would have seemed fabulous but I guess they draw the short straw being so close to one of the wonders of the world.
After two hours I finally tore myself away from this most lovely of places. Not only is the Taj truly deserving of its status, the whole place is fabulous, from buildings themselves to the beautiful gardens and the flawless symmetry everywhere. Here's one final look away from the Taj back down across the gardens to the gatehouse:
It would not, however, be my final experience of the Taj Mahal that day. But for details of that you'll have to wait for Agra: Part 4.
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