Some actual sightseeing

After nearly two weeks in Kathmandu, I finally got around to doing some actual sightseeing.  My initial enthusiasm for the city had been fading, the dirt and pollution becoming more obvious the longer I've been here.  Moreover, other than Baluwatar, the areas of town I'd had cause to spend time in (some shopping districts) I'd found rather charmless.  In particular, I'd hated the time I'd spent in the main backpacker hang-out area, Thamel, a few days earlier,which I'd found crowded and touristy and where I was pestered by shopkeepers and men on the street (one guy gave me directions then wouldn't leave me alone until I'd given him money) and, to make matters worse, I didn't find what I was looking for and then got back to my bike to find a flat tire.

I needed to be re-convinced about the attractiveness of the city, and so it was that on Sunday I set off on a self-guided walking tour around the Old City and Durbar Square.  Unfortunately the tour started in Thamel, where again I fell prey to an admittedly charming young boy who, after showing off his knowledge of geography and rather persistently sticking by my side for about 15 minutes, insisted that I buy milk for his baby brother.  I was happy to oblige, only to get to the shop and find that he wanted a box of powdered milk that cost an exorbitant 720 rupees.  I had the nagging sensation I'd been ripped off.  I really need to learn to be meaner sometimes.

Away from Thamel, things got much better.  The route passed by around twenty temples, stupas and shrines, beautiful but sometimes unfortunately dilapidated buildings vying for attention against dozens of market stalls and shops selling an equally eye-catching array of brightly coloured fabrics and piles of fake-labelled shoes.  I was particularly struck by one 5th or 6th century Buddha which in any Western museum would have been a prized object but here was stuck at street level between two doorways.

I thoroughly enjoyed the walk.  Once again, every sight seemed new and fascinating, from the crowded market squares to the quiet courtyards.  The architecture in the Old Town in lovely and the overwhelming impression, particularly of all the religious places, was that there was just too much to take in.  And that was before I even got to Durbar Square, the old royal centre of the city, full of magnificent temples.  I accepted the offer of a tour from a local guide, which was totally worthwhile, his extensive knowledge of history, religion and politics significantly enhancing my appreciation of the sites.

The walk back from Durbar Square was full of yet more wonder, especially the lovely Kathesimbhu Stupa, the most popular Tibetan pilgrimage site in the old city.  It was there that my camera and legs gave up on me, so, after venturing back into Thamel to recharge on chocolate cake and reclaim my bike, I went home, inspired again by the city, and looking forward to my next time off for further exploration.